Originally written on November 13, 2004

In the morning we had our free breakfast of eggs juice and tea (eggs, extra salty just they way mom never made because we would have run out of a whole box of salt in a week). We hopped on the bike and headed out to find ‘fairy spring’ and never found it. We headed down the road to find red dunes (never found), saw fishing village, great beach, beautiful views. On our way to the dunes we stopped at an internet cafe to download some pictures onto the mp3 player and to look up departure methods and times from Mui Ne to Saigon. The women running the cafe/internet told us that she operates a morning minibus. Later, we asked all around town and no other designated tour company leaves Mui Ne in the morning, so we thought that her deal was shady or more likely a crappy local ram jammed minibus ride from hell.

We decided to turn back, as it was late afternoon and still many km’s from the white sand dunes. We had a great swim in the ocean waves, watched the kite surfers and drank our beer. MMMM…

We wanted western food (hadn’t had pasta since we left) and went to an Italian restaurant. What were we thinking?!!! It was very disappointing: garlic bread, cheese ravioli, spaghetti in tomoto and bacon sauce (hardly any sauce and not crispy bacon). To make up for the meals shortcommings we destroyed the parmesean cheese that was free FU ‘Good. Movies before bed, then sleepy time.

Originally written on November 12, 2004

We arrived in Mui Ne after our 4 hour bus trip from Nha Trang at about noon. As per usual, we were dumped off at the place where the bus company get some commision if we stay. It looked OK, but it wasn’t near any restaurants so we would have to eat there or catch a cab every day — not bloody likely! So, I left Heather with the bags in the hotel restaurant and went out front, rented a motorcycle of some guy for 5 bucks (he filled it up with what he said was gas from a green 7up bottle, said see you tomorrow, and drove south looking for a good place to stay. I checked about 5 places and all were either OK and expensive 50US or more, or crappy and expensive. Except for the Rachua dua which was nice and only 25 US. We got a pretty decent AC room, 30 seconds from the beach, and the place had a pool. I probably could have gotten the place next door for cheaper, but it didn’t have a pool. We arrived, had a quick shower as is the custom to rid the travel sweat, and headed out on the motorcycle.

Where were we going you might ask? Question: where would 2 canadians go who were living on the cheap? Answer: to get beer! No need to pay ridiculous hotel prices. We headed into the town of Phan Thiet picked up some beer. This was also where we had our first really good whiff of Nuoc Nam, or fish sauce. Let me describe the smell: first a smooth sweet smell, like old honey or weak maple syrup followed by a puzzling, if not quite shellfish-ish then certainly fishy, but definatly pungent after smell. The first smell is good the second is bad leaving you feeling the need to constantly inhale to keep the sweet smell always going through your nose. Sadly, this is not possible. We got out of there quick, it really stinks.

On the way out of town we noticed two cham towers on the hill overlooking the place. We found our way there and after paying the 2000 dong toll we rode our motorcycles right up the ancient structures. There we were greeted by two young girls who happily guided us around and told us of their family. Li and here sisiter (sorry li’s sister, wher you May?) also showed us some berries they were eating. We enjoyed one or two only A)because its wrong to just ‘eat some berries’ and B) they where growing on an old military outpost which we also toured. Not nearly as exciting as the Cham towers, but certainly more dangerous. With daylight fading, and the camera batteries giving out, we headed back to our resort stopping along the way for some dinner, then to bed. Below is the original message (the sunset was from tonight):

We are currently in Mui Ne, Vietnam and still the internet is ass. We have been keeping up to date and hopefully when we get to Saigon next week we will be able to update pictures and the daily events. Here is where we are staying: http://www.elephantguide.com/hotels/phanthiet/tropico.htm Cheers for now. Sunset at Mui Ne last night…

Originally written on November 11, 2004

We arrived in Nha Trang at 6:30 am from our all night bus trip. Glad to be done we were greeted by many solicitors (touts) offering rooms for rent upon exiting the “bus terminal” (parking lot behind hotel). We made our way to the beach to think of where to stay and to get away from the touts. Our peace was short lived when a nervous solicitor approached trying to get us to go see hotel. They get money if we go to hotel, a finders fee. It took awhile to get him to go, he was so nervous talking to us that we couldn’t just say get lost pal, either that or he had a major case of the shakes. Anyway, we got away from him and went down the street for breakfast, we had bacon, omlette and bread (no jam or butter). Quote Heather, “greasy tummy is maxed out.”

I checked two hotels (one the nervous solicitor suggested cause it looked ok and one next to the greasy spoon). We settled on the one near the greasy place due to it being cheaper and still nice (AC, TV, hard bed, shower) and it including breakfast (12 US). We checked in then back to the beach to figure out what to do in Nha Trang and how long we should stay. We were disappointed in the beach, it kind of looks like california but water depth deep nearly right away so no good for swimming really. We then walked to pagoda and white buddha. Walking the city settled it for us that we should leave tomorrow and head to a quieter, cleaner spot (Mui Ne). Nha trang is kind of seedy compared to some of the other places we have been, no charm, all business. Also, a lot of night theft if you belive the guide books.

We bought bus tickets out to Mui Ne and were happy. Dinner was indian food: Vegetable korma, chicken tikka masala, pawaa rice, pakora (bread), bad beer (Saigon) and safe and good sprite. Water from store, gave us a useless 1000 dong coin, scammed again!. Packed till late, what’s new?

Originally written on November 6, 2004

We slept in, yay!, refreshed and had a late breakfast at the Banana caf�. Kirk had a make it yourself peanut butter and banana on a baguette, and most of the meal was quiet as he tried to eat the super sticky and yummy peanut butter. I had prawn curry and bread. A first, seafood for breakfast. The curry was good, the best yet for Vietnam, but pales by Laos and Thailand standards (too oily and not enough spice).

Midway through breakfast Kirk noticed a gentlemen leaving the restaurant wearing a conical hat (with the plastic wrap still on). We quietly commented that it is tourists like him, that enhance the Vietnamese belief that tourist will buy all sorts of crap. Shortly after our quiet review, the caucasion sitting next to us started up conversation with us. He is a business man (American citizen and Vietnanese resident) and shared our thoughts. Over the next hour or so he taught us some basic Vietnamese, ie. Di (go!) and Chai Yea (what’s this?), Nit Dow (you’re giving me a headache). We also talked about the Vietanmese business mentality and shared his travel stories on how to best get around south east Asia. Next, we were headed for an internet caf�, but saw that the sun was out, and the sky was blue. A rare sight at this time of year in Vietnam, so we decided to head for the beach. We went back to hour hotel to gather our beach wear and start to catch up with our web site.

We rented bicycles and rode to the beach (a 5 km ride). At the beach we played in the waves and lazed around on the sand. We headed back to the hotel before the sunset, and prepared for dinner. I finished my book, Atonement, a good read. We walked towards the river, checking out the many cloth shops.. At night it is less aggressive, so it easier to look around (with out of course going in). For dinner, we had a vegetable hot pot, chicken and curry, rice and cau lai (goughy noodles, bean sprouts, fried wontons and pork slices). After dinner we had a drink (gin and tonic) at the two for one happy hour bar and a pineapple pancake with chocolate sauce (awesome! And worth the wait). On our way back to the hotel we lloked for an internet caf�, and went into one briefly. As we were warned by the american we had spoken to this morning, the internet connection is painfully slow, so we gave up and went home to type out stories on our pda and write postcards.

Originally written on November 3, 2004

We arrived in Hue by late morning, and were approached at the train station by many tuk tuk’s. Having looking at the guidebook before hand, we already had three in mind. The driver who worked for one of those guesthouses (bingh duong II) approached us, we enquired about the price and accepted to go have a look.

The guesthouse was fairly new, but in a quieter part of town. Often this is good. I was shown a variety of rooms and settled on one. We turned on the air, got comfy and watched the American election while cooling off.

We decided to make the most of our day so we headed for lunch, at Mandarin cafe, one of the first decent meals (chicken curry, rice, shrimp n noodles) in Vietnam (not great, but not bad). After lunch I enquired at the travel office, part of the cafe, about the tours they had on offer. The perfume river tour interested us, as it took us to many of the King’s tombs. We decided to book a private tour/ and driver to avoid the cookie cutter quick and dirty tour. This private tour was more expensive and we booked only on the condition that we could cancel if we could not find other tourists with which to share the cost.

We also booked the Demilitarized Zone tour (an all day affair for the following day). After lunch we made our way to the citadel, an Ancient royal city. Most of it is in ruins with the exception of the flag building, the main entrance and the queen’s reading room. We wandered off the beaten path, no worries no landmines or snakes!, and saw some other ruined buildings away from the tour crowds, as well as some restoration work in progress.

Back from the citadel we watched more of the American election, which remained unsettled (Ohio was still yet to call) and then went out to dinner to the Stop and Go cafe. This cafe is basically an open shed, a corrugated tin roof held up I don’t know how and open sides. The food was ok, cannot recall what we ate. The cafe is also a travel agency, but this one is pushy. After we ordered food the owner came by and put other menus in our face, tourist books. I think there were two or three, and thick. Then he began his speech. Man oh man. This place came recommended in the guidebook but I really don’t see why. There was also a picture of a Vietnamese man with long white gold locks wearing a tank top, framed in the centre of the shed. We got a glimpse of him for real, and looked just like his picture. To bed early for our 5am ish start.

Originally written on November 2, 2004

Today both of our families called us at the hotel, to catch up on our trip goings on, and hear a friendly voice. Also, it was much cheaper for them to call us, then vice versa. After our chats we put our bags in the hotel storage and cruised the streets looking for snacks, souvenirs, gifts, a way to spend the day in Hanoi (as we had seen all the sites we wanted to see).

Kirk found a barber!, and got his haircut. This may sound insignificant, but he had been in search of a decent (with a door!) barber, and was unsuccessful throughout Laos. Kirk was next in line and we watched the barber cut a vietnamese man’s hair, and then proceed to shave his entire face! Forehead and nose included!!! Afterwards, a young women washed the newly coiffed man’s hair and gave him a head and forehead massage. All while watching, non-stop, a soap opera on a tv overhead. Not once did she look down at her customer!

We walked around town, buying supplies. We searched forever for a decent place to eat lunch and settled on a small cafe, based on the pastries, breads and chocolates in the window. Dessert (a chocolate bun and a dark chocolate with pistachio morsel) were great but Kirk had burnt french onion soup. My chicken sandwich was good.

In midafternoon we tried to go to the movies. They are far away from the city centre, and started at weird hours or were really uninteresting movies. Even the thought of air conditioning was not tempting enough to go watch a bad movie.

Instead of the movies, we decided on killing time at the local pub, where we drank local red beer, ate peanuts, watched soccer, and watched the locals get wasted (guys asleep at the table, others laughing loudly and gesturing).

We collected our bags and took a taxi to the train station. The driver, accidentally (of course) dropped us off at the wrong station (north bound instead of south bound). Thus, we were accosted by many cyclos telling us that the north bound train has left and when they found out we wanted the southbound train they offered to drive us there for a phenomenal fee. Of course. We knew that the station was close so we decided to walk. The walk (in the dark) was through a shady part of town, and Kirk and I quickly (but not to quickly so as not to appear frightened) made our way to the correct station.

We boarded the train and met our roomates in our four bunk bed room. Two Japanese 20 somethings. We shared some of our strange foodstuffs. A drink called birds nest fungus, which tastes like sweet yoghurt except that it has chunky pieces in it. We found out later that these chunks are actual shallow nests fragments, a delicacy! We also ate seaweed potato chips, really good. Our two companions shared Japanese gum, which comes in a huge medicine like plastic container. Very good. We chatted to them about our lives and travel in broken English and went to sleep.

Originally written on November 1, 2004

We returned from Halong Bay Sunday night, and realized that we wanted to move along on our journey. It was time to book our train tickets to Hue. So, after a mehh breakfast we tried to book train tickets thru our hotel. After a lot of effort (different travel agencies, back and forth throughout the morning) we booked tickets through our hotel in the afternoon. It was too late to purchase tickets for Monday evening so we purchased tickets for Tuesday evening. Hmmm, another two days in Hanoi with no more tourist sites to see. What to do… We occupied Monday by mailing a package home (this took 2 hours) and wandering around the themed streets looking for grilling racks (for barbecuing veggies, shrimp etc.). I had seen them in the grocery store for 12000 dong but on the streets they were 20000 and in the market (which is supposed to be cheapest of all) they were 40000. The quality, and style were exactly the same. No one wanted to bargain, so we left empty handed. We bought supplies at an asian supermarket. Kirk was craving a hamburger, so we went to an aussie run joint and ate a hamburger and french fries with milkshakes. Cost usd?… I think… We spent the rest of the day trying to figure out how to phone Canada from Vietnam. Prices range from .00 to .50 CAD a minute, and the cheapest price is done from a stuffy hot booth in the post office. We decided after much internet surfing that our families should call us, so we sent out an email asking them to call the next morning. We were stuffed from lunch, so skipped dinner and went to bed, after watching a movie or two on tv. -played to win some OMO -had bacon burgers -figure out phoning

Originally written on October 31, 2004

Today was our last morning at our beach hut Paradise. We awoke afresh, emerged from our mosquito net cocoon bed (a flat mattress on the wooden slat floor.

After breakfast (of two french baguettes, and an omelette) we headed out for our last kayak. Where there was a direct current from the ocean, not protected by islands the waves were often choppy. We bounced and skipped along the waves, with giggles of joy. We went through an arch (see pictures) and headed towards a fishing village.

The village consists of small green shacks with a netted area in front (that is attached to the ocean bottom with rocks. In the enclosed area red fin, dogfish and other fish species are farmed and all of them are exported to China (none for Vietnamese according to our guide).

The village had 600 inhabitants and 900 dogs. Where do dogs poop, on the floating dock? Some of the dogs were unfriendly, barking as we went by. At one section we had to go between to nearly adjoining docks (each with two dogs barking and snapping their teeth at us. Luckily, these dogs did not swim or know how to pull the two docks together (a simple tug of a rope). We made it through safely, with many nervous laughs and chuckles.

We headed back to base camp, and on the way learned talked casually with our guide. Thuy (pronounced Tree) was excited about having one day off (after 6 days working) but sad that it was not enough time to go see his girlfriend, who I believe lives in Central Vietnam. We learned that Vietnamese girls are expected to marry between the age of 18-25(26). After which, they are spinsters and unlikely to get married. The average female age is 18, and male 20. There is no upper age limit for a man to get married.

Back at camp there was time for a swim before lunch (same food as the previous two lunches) then another swim. During this swim I decided to look more closely at the sea floor. I found many starfish that I could pick up in my hand and they would walk along my hands with their “water vascular system” propelled feet (yay teaching 1st year biology). I also found several hermit crabs. They are crabs that find abandoned (but clean shells) and use them as their home. When I picked them up the crabs would peep almost entirely out of their shell and then get spooked and dart back in. In the morning, before breakfast we saw many small sand coloured crabs, moving speedily across our beach.

We left our island home at 2 pm on a small wooden boat, which moved only slightly faster than kayaks. We headed back along our morning route and then further to Cat Ba Island. We arrived on with 7 minutes to spare before our boat to Haiphong departed, on the opposite side of the island. A short minibus ride, 4 minutes at rip roaring speed got us there just in time. The tourist ferry was an hour and a half long. Kirk saw dolphins swimming at the back of the boat (briefly) and within 10 minutes I was sleeping (mix of gravol and hum of engine). From Haiphong we caught our brand new mini bus (really!) and took the two hour 15 minute journey back to Hanoi. Kirk watched near accidents from the driver’s side while I watched the people and buildings going by.

Dinner back in Hanoi, toasted ham and cheese sandwich, boo to Dutch cheese. We miss Canadian Cheddar. There have been several talks about grilled cheese, and macaroni and cheese. Mmm. Cheese. Alas. Also on the food menu was chicken kebabs (unfortunately, only cooked on the outside so we pretty much left those untouched) and beef soup, pretty bland.

We were told by another tourist on our kayak trip that Vietnamese chocolate is fantastic, so of course we went in search of this treasure. After walking through a night market (on a walking only street!) we found candy street, and wouldn’t you know it, it is right by our house. We got an assortment of chocolates, and will be back for more. They have x peanut butter chocolates and they are awesome! Soon, time for bed.