Originally written on November 2, 2004

Today both of our families called us at the hotel, to catch up on our trip goings on, and hear a friendly voice. Also, it was much cheaper for them to call us, then vice versa. After our chats we put our bags in the hotel storage and cruised the streets looking for snacks, souvenirs, gifts, a way to spend the day in Hanoi (as we had seen all the sites we wanted to see).

Kirk found a barber!, and got his haircut. This may sound insignificant, but he had been in search of a decent (with a door!) barber, and was unsuccessful throughout Laos. Kirk was next in line and we watched the barber cut a vietnamese man’s hair, and then proceed to shave his entire face! Forehead and nose included!!! Afterwards, a young women washed the newly coiffed man’s hair and gave him a head and forehead massage. All while watching, non-stop, a soap opera on a tv overhead. Not once did she look down at her customer!

We walked around town, buying supplies. We searched forever for a decent place to eat lunch and settled on a small cafe, based on the pastries, breads and chocolates in the window. Dessert (a chocolate bun and a dark chocolate with pistachio morsel) were great but Kirk had burnt french onion soup. My chicken sandwich was good.

In midafternoon we tried to go to the movies. They are far away from the city centre, and started at weird hours or were really uninteresting movies. Even the thought of air conditioning was not tempting enough to go watch a bad movie.

Instead of the movies, we decided on killing time at the local pub, where we drank local red beer, ate peanuts, watched soccer, and watched the locals get wasted (guys asleep at the table, others laughing loudly and gesturing).

We collected our bags and took a taxi to the train station. The driver, accidentally (of course) dropped us off at the wrong station (north bound instead of south bound). Thus, we were accosted by many cyclos telling us that the north bound train has left and when they found out we wanted the southbound train they offered to drive us there for a phenomenal fee. Of course. We knew that the station was close so we decided to walk. The walk (in the dark) was through a shady part of town, and Kirk and I quickly (but not to quickly so as not to appear frightened) made our way to the correct station.

We boarded the train and met our roomates in our four bunk bed room. Two Japanese 20 somethings. We shared some of our strange foodstuffs. A drink called birds nest fungus, which tastes like sweet yoghurt except that it has chunky pieces in it. We found out later that these chunks are actual shallow nests fragments, a delicacy! We also ate seaweed potato chips, really good. Our two companions shared Japanese gum, which comes in a huge medicine like plastic container. Very good. We chatted to them about our lives and travel in broken English and went to sleep.

Originally written on November 1, 2004

We returned from Halong Bay Sunday night, and realized that we wanted to move along on our journey. It was time to book our train tickets to Hue. So, after a mehh breakfast we tried to book train tickets thru our hotel. After a lot of effort (different travel agencies, back and forth throughout the morning) we booked tickets through our hotel in the afternoon. It was too late to purchase tickets for Monday evening so we purchased tickets for Tuesday evening. Hmmm, another two days in Hanoi with no more tourist sites to see. What to do… We occupied Monday by mailing a package home (this took 2 hours) and wandering around the themed streets looking for grilling racks (for barbecuing veggies, shrimp etc.). I had seen them in the grocery store for 12000 dong but on the streets they were 20000 and in the market (which is supposed to be cheapest of all) they were 40000. The quality, and style were exactly the same. No one wanted to bargain, so we left empty handed. We bought supplies at an asian supermarket. Kirk was craving a hamburger, so we went to an aussie run joint and ate a hamburger and french fries with milkshakes. Cost usd?… I think… We spent the rest of the day trying to figure out how to phone Canada from Vietnam. Prices range from .00 to .50 CAD a minute, and the cheapest price is done from a stuffy hot booth in the post office. We decided after much internet surfing that our families should call us, so we sent out an email asking them to call the next morning. We were stuffed from lunch, so skipped dinner and went to bed, after watching a movie or two on tv. -played to win some OMO -had bacon burgers -figure out phoning

Originally written on October 31, 2004

Today was our last morning at our beach hut Paradise. We awoke afresh, emerged from our mosquito net cocoon bed (a flat mattress on the wooden slat floor.

After breakfast (of two french baguettes, and an omelette) we headed out for our last kayak. Where there was a direct current from the ocean, not protected by islands the waves were often choppy. We bounced and skipped along the waves, with giggles of joy. We went through an arch (see pictures) and headed towards a fishing village.

The village consists of small green shacks with a netted area in front (that is attached to the ocean bottom with rocks. In the enclosed area red fin, dogfish and other fish species are farmed and all of them are exported to China (none for Vietnamese according to our guide).

The village had 600 inhabitants and 900 dogs. Where do dogs poop, on the floating dock? Some of the dogs were unfriendly, barking as we went by. At one section we had to go between to nearly adjoining docks (each with two dogs barking and snapping their teeth at us. Luckily, these dogs did not swim or know how to pull the two docks together (a simple tug of a rope). We made it through safely, with many nervous laughs and chuckles.

We headed back to base camp, and on the way learned talked casually with our guide. Thuy (pronounced Tree) was excited about having one day off (after 6 days working) but sad that it was not enough time to go see his girlfriend, who I believe lives in Central Vietnam. We learned that Vietnamese girls are expected to marry between the age of 18-25(26). After which, they are spinsters and unlikely to get married. The average female age is 18, and male 20. There is no upper age limit for a man to get married.

Back at camp there was time for a swim before lunch (same food as the previous two lunches) then another swim. During this swim I decided to look more closely at the sea floor. I found many starfish that I could pick up in my hand and they would walk along my hands with their “water vascular system” propelled feet (yay teaching 1st year biology). I also found several hermit crabs. They are crabs that find abandoned (but clean shells) and use them as their home. When I picked them up the crabs would peep almost entirely out of their shell and then get spooked and dart back in. In the morning, before breakfast we saw many small sand coloured crabs, moving speedily across our beach.

We left our island home at 2 pm on a small wooden boat, which moved only slightly faster than kayaks. We headed back along our morning route and then further to Cat Ba Island. We arrived on with 7 minutes to spare before our boat to Haiphong departed, on the opposite side of the island. A short minibus ride, 4 minutes at rip roaring speed got us there just in time. The tourist ferry was an hour and a half long. Kirk saw dolphins swimming at the back of the boat (briefly) and within 10 minutes I was sleeping (mix of gravol and hum of engine). From Haiphong we caught our brand new mini bus (really!) and took the two hour 15 minute journey back to Hanoi. Kirk watched near accidents from the driver’s side while I watched the people and buildings going by.

Dinner back in Hanoi, toasted ham and cheese sandwich, boo to Dutch cheese. We miss Canadian Cheddar. There have been several talks about grilled cheese, and macaroni and cheese. Mmm. Cheese. Alas. Also on the food menu was chicken kebabs (unfortunately, only cooked on the outside so we pretty much left those untouched) and beef soup, pretty bland.

We were told by another tourist on our kayak trip that Vietnamese chocolate is fantastic, so of course we went in search of this treasure. After walking through a night market (on a walking only street!) we found candy street, and wouldn’t you know it, it is right by our house. We got an assortment of chocolates, and will be back for more. They have x peanut butter chocolates and they are awesome! Soon, time for bed.

Originally written October 28, 3004

After getting up early, we walked to Ho Chi Minh’s masuleum to see his mumified body. To bad he had a previous engagement in Russia. Apparently, about this time ever year he makes a trip over to russia to see the master technicians who keep him from turning into dust. Still, his place is pretty swank. We watched the changing of the guards (kind of pointles when he’s not there). The changing is supposed to be as good as London’s, however we thought that if you liked seeing a few guys in white ‘march up and down the sqaure’ then this was your thing, otherwise a yawner. Good thing we just happened to be there. We also visited the museum dedicated to his life and writings and the struggle for workers rights, democracy, and a free Vietnam. Full of arts symbolism that is hard to interpret it is perhaps the strangest museum I’ve ever been to. No pictures allowed here. » Read the rest of the entry..

Nothing doing today. We booked a 3 day kayaking adventure on Halong bay for 158US each (all inclusive save drinks) for Friday. We also prchased needed supplies (flashlight for caves, candy, underwear). Heather had trouble finding things that would fit her GIGANTIC frame. Heather also went to the Ethsnitician to prepare for bathing suit time. The beauty people were fascinated with heathers nice nose and how it goes “in” before it goes “out.” Hard to explain, anyway it is nice and curvy. Who knew?

For an early dinner we had fried morning glory (spinich) and ‘hicken with 5 tastes’ both of which were very yummy. We didn’t talk much during dinner we were so hungry. Those two dishes with rice and a beer cost under .50 CDN (not bad for a touristy place). Now we are catching up on internet activities and planning on hitting some desert later. Mmmmm…..

Originally written on October 28, 2004

After getting up early, we walked to Ho Chi Minh’s mausoleum to see his mumified body. Too bad he had a previous engagement in Russia. Apparently, about this time ever year he makes a trip over to Russia to see the master technicians who keep him from turning into dust. Still, his place is pretty swank. We watched the changing of the guards (kind of pointles when he’s not there). The changing is supposed to be as good as London’s, however we thought that if you liked seeing a few guys in white ‘march up and down the sqaure’ then this was your thing, otherwise a yawner. Good thing we just happened to be there. We also visited the museum dedicated to his life and writings and the struggle for workers rights, democracy, and a free Vietnam. Full of arts symbolism that is hard to interpret it is perhaps the strangest museum I’ve ever been to. No pictures allowed here. » Read the rest of the entry..

Originally written on October 27, 2004

Nothing doing today. We booked a 3 day kayaking adventure on Halong bay for 158US each (all inclusive save drinks) for Friday. We also purchased needed supplies (flashlight for caves, candy, underwear). Heather had trouble finding things that would fit her GIGANTIC frame. Heather also went to the esthetician to prepare for bathing suit time. For an early dinner we had fried morning glory (spinich) and ‘chicken with 5 tastes’ both of which were very yummy. We didn’t talk much during dinner we were so hungry. Those two dishes with rice and a beer cost under $3.50? CDN (not bad for a touristy place). Now we are catching up on internet activities and planning on hitting some dessert later. Mmmmm….. » Read the rest of the entry..

Originally written on October 26, 2004

After a somewhat restless sleep, to be expected the first night in a new city we began our day. First, free breakfast downstairs. Eggs (scrambled with cheese or onion, fried, french bread, pound cake with cream filling, fresh fruit (orange, pineapple, papaya, miscellaneous!), freshly squeezed fruit juice (taste like mango but has different seeds?), ham, bacon, spring rolls, fried rice, and these awesome crispy donut like pastries.

We ventured onto the street to begin our walking tour (map from hotel). We quickly learned that sidewalks, and the inside of stores are for motorcycles, not pedestrians/shoppers! Crossing the street you do in blind faith. There is next to never a break in the busy traffic, with the exception of other people walking into traffic to also cross the street. We hold hands, look for a slower moving group of motorcyclists, and then enter the intersection. To succeed in crossing the street you must move at regular slow pace, don’t look left or right because you may freak yourself out about how crazy such a simple thing as crossing the street should be. We learned that even small, minor streets can be hazardous. » Read the rest of the entry..